Dessert Art by Chris Cordeiro

Pastry chef, Chris Cordeiro creates artwork for Clio. Desserts that burst with color, flavor, and inegnuity. When I first met Chris, I was interviewing Todd Maul in what is called "the dungeon"  by Chris and Todd, but I see it as more of a space where artistic and culinary expertise meet hand in hand.  Considering that dessert is my favorite meal, I was curious about the process involved with designing and creating desserts for one of the top restaurants in Boston. After dropping in for a dessert tasting, and a photo shoot, I enjoyed gathering some information to share with you!  Enjoy the photos and be sure to stop in at Clio to enjoy a Chris Cordeiro original. He is leaving Clio on September 1st and will be heading to Persimmon in Bristol, RI. where he will be focusing on his true passion, savory dishes. I will be sure to catch up with Chris in his new role, but will miss his innovative desserts at Clio.

Chocolate and Green Chartreuse Capsule
Roasted Orange, Alba Cinnamon, Chocolate Sorbet:
Chocolate Capsule, Chartreuse Anglaise, Chartreuse Gummies, roasted orange puree, alba cinnamon cream, dehydrated chocolate mousee, candied cocoa nibs, thyme infused orange foam

Raspberry and Lychee:
Candied Lime, Macadamia Nut, Sour Cream Ice Cream:
Raspberry and Lychee coral, Fresh Raspberries, Fresh Lychee, Lychee Gel, Raspberry gel, Candied lime segments, lime powder, macadamia roasted, chip and gel, sour cream ice cream

Buttermilk Bavarois
Blackberry, Violet, Oak Ice Cream:
Butter milk Bavarois, Textures of Black berry, violet cream, violet meringue, elderflower gel, oak ice cream

Kouigin (My favorite!!)

Chris

Mango Tart
Coffee, Togarashi Caramel, COconut Ice Cream:
Mango Curd, Mango puree, Coffee crumble, Togarashi Caramel,
Coconut foam, COconut IC, orange marmalade..

Visit Chris over at Clio:
370A Commonwealth Ave.
Boston, MA 02215 

In the Lab with Todd Maul & Chris Cordeiro

A Vapo Conversation

A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to go behind the scenes with Todd Maul, bartender over at Clio restaurant in Back Bay.  Todd is one of the exceptional bartenders in Boston. His creative concoctions compliment the complexity of the dishes created by Clio’s executive chef and co-owner, Ken Oringer. 

How does Todd create these harmonious concoctions? In addition to having a keen sense and natural talent for creative mixing, Todd utilizes lab equipment that you might normally find in most chemistry labs across the Charles in Cambridge. Self taught, he uses a rotary evaporator, a large centrifuge, test tubes and liquid nitrogen to filter out the molecular components of a particular flavor he would like to add to a drink. I certainly learned a lot during the couple of hours I spent in the "lab"!

rotational evaporator

 The day I visited, Todd was using the rotary evaporator to extract some Gran Classico essence and to make a paint from the extracted flavors. I enjoyed observing the preparation, which involved pouring liquid nitrogen into a large column. The alcohol boils at a controlled temperature and the vapor collects, cools and drips into another flask. Different “notes” are collected at various boiling points. Todd keeps a close eye on the drip rate, which gives an indication. This is all done by eye and experience. Quite impressive. 

While all of this was going on, Chris Cordeiro, pastry chef extraordinaire, was hammering some butter in preparation for Kouign-amann. Chris and Todd collaborate and exchange ideas quite often, which adds to the creation of exceptional drinks and desserts at Clio! 

Much to my delight, I was able to sample a Kouign-amann while waiting for the Gran Classico to reach the right boiling point! It was delightfully buttery, crispy, and filled with layers of sweetness. With a little hazelnut gelato! A must try! 

Kouign-amann

It was also bread day and Chris had whipped up a couple of banana breads and a delicious fruit and nut bread that is served with Clio's cheese plate.  

The vibe is relaxed and enjoyable in the pastry kitchen. I could have easily hung out there all day talking shop and sampling!

Next, the Gran Classico paint was made and everything was brought up to the bar where further experimenting took place with the Gran Classico creations. 

Gran Classico Paint

Gran Classico paint lining the Vapo Conversation glass

Todd became very focused and started pulling various liquors from the liquor cabinet and the result was a new drink called A Vapo Conversation which consists of: 

½ oz. Bols

½ oz. lime

¾ orange clement

½ oz. Grand Classico

painted glass with clasico reduction

Drop of the Gran Classico essence... 

The amount of work that goes into the creation of one drink was truly eye opening. There are many other drinks on the menu that went through a similar process. 

This drink is made with smoky essence of a cinnamon stick! 

eggnog

Dessert Menu 

Drop by Clio and enjoy a Vapo Conversation and a Kouign-amann! Todd is always enthusiastic about talking about his craft and has recently begun featuring a special drink every Monday. The week I was there he made a batch of his famous eggnog. I have to say that it was best I have ever had and quite a treat to enjoy out of season! Todd will be a guest speaker at a chemistry conference in June. You can find out more interesting tidbits about Todd and updates from Clio on Twitter and Facebook: @ItsToddMaul & @ClioBoston, https://www.facebook.com/ClioRestaurant

Todd Maul

Chris Cordeiro